i had a little quince tree, nothing would it bear..

In between all the Christmassy stuff this week, a quince tree that I had ordered turned up. There is already a mature quince in the orchard, but it hardly ever bears any fruit. I looked at it in blossom this year and there was plenty of flower, but the rest of the pears had long finished doing their thing. If you look in the books, quince are supposed to be self fertile, but everybody needs a friend, right?

The tree that I had ordered was bare root, which is by far the cheapest way to buy trees. They are available here between November and March - as the trees slumber gently, they are lifted from the ground, root-washed and posted off to their new homes. They are light as feathers compared to container grown trees so the postage is cheap too.

They're just a little bit more challenging to plant if you're not used to them, and they don't like to hang around. You've either got to plant them straight away, or give them a temporary home in a pot if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. But as it's been mild and dry here for the last couple of weeks, I decided to summon up our two trainees for a quick lesson in bare root fruit planting.

It's important to plant the tree at the same level as it was in the field 

- the soil mark is visible just below the graft union.

We staked it and tied it and mulched it

and pruned the leader back to a nice healthy looking bud 

(in case the tip of the shoot had been damaged in transit).

Then we wrote down what we had planted so we don't forget!

Now all it has to do is grow...

more from the orchard

I’ve just been watching a DVD about pruning produced by a well known seed house; a) because I was told to, and b) even though you think you know what you’re talking about, it’s always good to check, (especially if you’re planning on dishing out advice yourself).  It claimed to be copyright 2004, but I would say by the size of the hairdos that it was probably a remastered video from the late 80’s. It was well produced and informative and I have learned the following

- Seems like I mostly do know what I’m talking about – phew! (At least on the subject of pruning anyway).
- An hour is way too long for any kind of instructional film – if it’s more than 20 minutes it better have Johnny Depp in it.
- It might seem like a good idea to have men in tweed telling you that it’s all ‘quite simple really, just remember this handy rhyme…’ but after an hour they all sort of run together into ‘If it blooms before noon, then prune by June!’

So I promise I’ll try and keep the advice in bite size chunks - will maybe consider working on some rhyming mnemonics though.

Today the orchard is very snowy – it makes the tree forms stand out more though, which is handy for my next exposition:

These trees are pruned as clear stem standards – this is a traditional look which would have been used in orchards where the intention was to graze livestock under the trees.  Modern orchards look more like vineyards, with densely planted rows of tightly pruned trees on ultra dwarfing rootstocks. Being able to carry out all pruning and picking operations at ground level is a huge advantage for commercial growers.

For your own backyard orchard, both styles have their advantages.  Clear stem trees are great for lounging around underneath, attaching hammocks etc and give any space a dollop of rustic charm.  More strictly pruned forms, like the espalier and cordons pictured below, are great for formal settings or anywhere where limited space is a consideration.

So think about your rootstocks people – that’s what controls the size of the tree. Pruning controls the shape, or ‘habit’ of the tree, but not the size.  Getting both right from the start will give you the jump on getting the backyard orchard of your dreams.

To get you started - here is a useful guide to rootstocks… 

... and for all you nascent tree nerds out there – here is a guide to tree forms, as defined by the UK Horticultural Trades Association:

an apple tree is for life not just for Christmas...

The cold weather has finally arrived and the muckheap I have been spreading onto the freshly dug veg beds has frozen into a giant poopsicle.  So I have retreated to the shelter of the potting shed to organise the tools and dream up plans for spring.  This time of year seems impossibly far from the warm soil and lengthening days needed for seed sowing, but it does have its own opportunities.  If you want to plant any fruit trees or bushes this year – now is the time to buy them ‘bare root’ from specialist fruit nurseries at a fraction of the price of container grown stock available all year round from garden centres.  The natural dormancy of the plants between November and March means they can be transplanted with minimal disturbance, just give the roots a good soak and protect them from cold winds until the ground thaws and you can get them in. If you dream of planting your own orchard there’s some basic stuff to know about fruit trees that will help get you started:

Size matters: Most fruit trees are grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks, this means you know what size your mature tree is going to turn out.  Remember that fruit for eating needs to be picked from the tree – the bruise it gets as it thuds to the ground means it won’t keep. So don’t get too ambitious with the size unless you’re very happy dancing around on the top of a ladder.  Also, make sure you plant your trees far enough apart – there will be advice on the label.  It’s tempting to cram them in when they just look like tiny sticks but they will reward you if you give them the room they need to grow.

Read the instructions: Although in our house reading the instructions is considered to be ‘for girls’, it really is worth studying the info about your new trees.  Reputable nurseries should be able to help you choose your trees and their catalogues are full of handy tips.  It’s going to be a good few years before you get your first decent crop so it’s worth investing the time to do your research up front.  As well as advice on size and variety, the label or catalogue will give you a number between one and five that relates to the pollination group, (don’t panic), of the tree.  Which brings me to my next point….

The birds and the bees:  Most trees can’t pollinate themselves – they need a friend.  Pollination groups relate to flowering time and the numbers divide the varieties into groups from early to late flowerers. For pollination to happen the trees need to be in bloom at the same time so the bees can do their work. Trees from the same group or one number either side will be good together: ie  a 2 is good with a 1,2 or 3 but not with a 5.

Growing from seed: Since we’re on the subject of the birds and the bees – the seed inside an apple is the product of sexual reproduction, (I know!).  The fruit of the plant that grows from that seed will have characteristics from both of its parents – and not necessarily the desirable ones! To get the same apple you need to take a cutting from the parent tree and graft it (life’s too short – spend the money).

So when you find an apple that you love the taste of, instead of coming over all Johnny Appleseed, write down the name of the variety and order it in the size you want from a good supplier.